5 Outboard No-Start Fixes You Can Do in 10 Minutes (Before Calling a Tow)

Don't Call for a Tow Yet

Your outboard won't start. The family is staring at you. You're imagining the embarrassment of getting towed back to the ramp. Wait. Before you make that call, try these 5 quick fixes that solve most no-start problems in under 10 minutes.

Fix #1: Check the Kill Switch (30 seconds)

This is the #1 "repair" marine mechanics make—and they don't even charge for it because they feel bad. The kill switch lanyard either:

• Isn't fully clicked in
• Got bumped loose
• Has a corroded clip that's not making contact

The fix: Remove the lanyard completely, clean both contact points with your shirt, and firmly click it back in. Try starting again.

Works? You just saved yourself $200+ in tow fees.

Fix #2: Squeeze the Primer Bulb (2 minutes)

If your engine cranks but won't fire, it's probably not getting fuel. The primer bulb tells you everything:

• Soft and stays soft: Air leak in the fuel line or closed tank vent
• Gets firm after 5-10 squeezes: Fuel is flowing correctly
• Was already firm: Fuel system is pressurized (good)

The fix: Open your fuel tank vent. Squeeze the primer bulb until it's rock hard. Wait 30 seconds for fuel to reach the carbs. Try starting again.

Pro tip: If the bulb won't get firm, check the fuel line connections at both ends. A hairline crack near the connector is the usual culprit.

Fix #3: Check the Neutral Safety Switch (1 minute)

Most outboards won't start unless they're in neutral. But "neutral" on the lever doesn't always mean "neutral" at the engine.

The fix:

1. Push the throttle/shift lever firmly into neutral
2. Wiggle it slightly side to side
3. Try starting while holding the lever in different positions within the "neutral" zone

If it starts in a slightly different position, your shift cable needs adjustment—but at least you're not getting towed.

Fix #4: Clean the Battery Terminals (3 minutes)

Your engine clicks but won't crank? Or cranks slowly? The battery connections are your prime suspect.

Corrosion builds up invisibly between the terminal and cable. It can look fine but block enough current to prevent starting.

The fix:

1. Loosen both battery terminals (negative first)
2. Twist each cable on its post—you're breaking through the corrosion layer
3. Tighten firmly (negative last)
4. Try starting

No tools? Even wiggling the cables while someone turns the key can temporarily restore the connection.

Fix #5: Wait It Out (Flooded Engine) (10 minutes)

If you smell gas strongly and the engine cranks but won't catch, you've probably flooded it. Too much fuel, not enough air.

The fix:

1. Stop trying to start it (you're making it worse)
2. Push the throttle to FULL OPEN (wide open throttle)
3. Turn the choke OFF
4. Wait 5-10 minutes for excess fuel to evaporate
5. Crank with throttle still wide open—this lets maximum air in

It might cough and sputter at first. That's good. It's clearing out. Let it run rough for 30 seconds, then ease off the throttle.

Still Won't Start?

If you've tried all 5 fixes and nothing works, you likely have one of these deeper issues:

• Bad fuel – Water in the gas or old ethanol fuel
• No spark – Ignition coil, stator, or CDI failure
• Mechanical failure – Blown head gasket, seized engine

These require tools and parts you probably don't have on the water. Time to call for help—but at least you know you tried everything reasonable first.

Prevention: Never Get Stuck Again

Most no-start problems are preventable with basic maintenance:

• Replace fuel filters annually
• Use fuel stabilizer if the boat sits for more than 2 weeks
• Check battery terminals monthly during boating season
• Test your kill switch before every trip
• Carry a spare primer bulb ($15 insurance)

Questions? Drop them in the comments below. We respond to every one.